Jump to content

RO


Brenton
 Share

Recommended Posts

With hard water possibly causing issues for my HM and will cause issues for my CT's and because I live in Adelaide, I've got to address the issue of water hardness in particular, and water quality in general, sooner rather than later.

I need to go Reverse Osmosis.

I need to get the Pura Tap system out of my house and replace it with a true RO unit.

Razzi - I lnow you've installed one recently. Can I ask make/model/cost - if that's not being too rude?

Anyone else have experience with them? I've trawled through the back logs, and there's not a heap of info on the forum specifically about units/makes/costs, etc.

I've looked here (http://thereefshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11) and found, what looks like, some very competitively priced units, but I'm not sure whether I should be looking at a 3, 4, or 5 stage RO unit to use for both tank water and drinking water.

There is also here: http://www.advancedwaterfiltration.com.au/id83.html

But this is what caught my eye and I'm seriously considering getting this weekend: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gulfview-heights/other-appliances/reverse-osmosis-system/1023245480#

Am I barking up the wrong water filter?

All help/advice/suggestions appreciated as always

BT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the one I bought http://bit.ly/13topAs from eBay $195. I didn't realise how slow they were and how much waste water they produce. I only use this on my channoides tank. It's got a dual output able to give you pure soft water and also drinking water with minerals added back. The channoides get a 50-50 mix. But it's slow. I've set up one of those garden tap timers so I can turn it on to fill a bucket and just walk away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok - I purchased the unit. Turned out to be four stage, so for $100, I thought it was a pretty good score anyway.

After talking to the guy, it takes about 30 minutes to fill 9 litres, so it is still slow, and will take a while to fill my 30L containers, but I've taken advice from Ness and staged my changes so I no longer have to do any on the weekends. I also found an old post about SA Water doing a flush on Friday evenings, so I can start a refill Saturday mi-morning and just let it go till done.

I'm also getting a plumber in to fit the thing properly. I need one to fix a couple of other things around the house so he can do that as well. I've plumbed one while sink in my career, and that was only a so-so job at best.

I may end up doing 50/50 anyway depending on what readings I get from the thing.

In the end, I'm hoping I at least get better quality water for the CT's and HM's.

BT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not a fan of true RO water for human consumption, and not convinced for fish yet. The lack of salts can cause some serious health concerns - they killed a few blokes when they first started using it in the mines for drinking water years ago. Most places side stream about 30% nonRO...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fourth stage adds mineral back in for drinking water, but its had things like the chlorine and chloramine removed, amoung other nasties/chemicals.

I can choose to have straight RO or I can have the RO treated rinking water. I'm going to test both to see where I'm at. Plumber coming tomorrow to install.

Pez - Adelaide water is ridicuously hard, often testing way into the 20 drop range of an API GH tester - dont have it with me at the moment to translate that for you. The bottom line is it is way too hard for CT's and HM's finnage. Not a good thing when I'm trying to breed lines of CT's.

I need to soften it. Being in the driest state, on the driest continent means I cant really rely on a steady supply of free rain water :( RO is my only choice. Getting the ratio right will be the next thing - 50/50 or 30/70?

As for salts - I always add salt into my aging water, and I'll be testing the RO with minerals added back in - so one way or another, there will be salt.

I shall let you all know how I get on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My RO is similar. It has a drinking water stage which adds minerals back. I use 70% RO to 30% drinking for channoides. I've been lazy and not bothered with testing. Fish are spawning so they must be happy. For CT and HM I'd be tempted to just use the drinking water stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok - RO unit hooked. Did a test from the unit using the drinking water and it drops my gH to 2! That's from having 300+ppm to less than 50ppm. That kind of blew me away.

So I did a 50/50 mix, and got 143ppm - cool. kH in 50/50 mix is also good at 72ppm. pH was 7.4 and more stable than my house, and in the 50/50 mix, has gone to 8.6! what the??

Did I miss something? I do not want to have to start putting measured amounts of IAL into my containers to keep the pH down...any suggestions?

:censor:/>

Ignore me - false alarm.

Test kit gave me an incorrect reading. I've since tested three times, washed all the equipment, let it dry, and retested - back to a solid 7.4.

Edited by Brenton
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...nah, just the API Master Test Kit.

Was very wierd. I have to remember to have patience and take a second when things dont look right in this hobby. Think things through and, if necessary, rerun the tests to be sure ;)

I might save myself some angst, and the need to edit posts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...