Justin88 Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 im wanting to set up a fairly large betta barracks system but What is the best filter system for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Can you describe your barracks design a bit more? Have you got a design pic? I don't know that the term 'best' can really be applied to any filtration system. The filter either works or not. You want a filter that will successfully remove or trap solid waste, convert ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and remove toxins that might reside in your tap water. Depending on the size and design of your barracks you can choose canisters, sumps or even air driven filters. What do you mean by "fairly large"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 well i don't have any sort of design as im not sure on that either i was hoping to get some help on that to. well i was hoping to have between 20-50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Here are some ideas. http://student.org/betta/flobactanktemp.htm http://www.ibcbettas.org/StadBylawsForms/BettasAndMore.pdf http://www.bcbetta.com/fishroom.html http://www.aquatichabitats.com/systems_home.htm http://www.jeff-productions.com/Bettas_Dojo/fish_room.htm http://www.bettapuddle.com/fishroomdripsystem.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 While you're working your way through those links here are a few things to think about:How much room do you have?Where is the system going to be located?Is humidity going to be an issue? Speaking from painful personal experience. Are you going to heat the system? Or heat the whole room?Is this a system for jarring juveniles? Or holding adults? Combination?How handy are you? How much will you be able to build yourself? Can you build shelving? Tanks?And the most important question: How much money can you spend on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 well i do want it heated it is going to be in a spare room in my new house where the room will be insulated. im not handy but my brother is a cabnet maker so he is going to build the shelving, and about the tanks/jars i haven't worked out the best and cheapest way yet any ideas? it is most prob going to be for juveniles and adults. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Beanie boxes are a cheap container. They're strong and relatively easy to drill. You can get them from Jodi-Lea (fishchick@internode.on.net). She will probably be able to give you a bulk price if you're buying 50. Scroll down to the bottom of this article to where he talks about jarring for another perspective. http://www.timsalphabettas.com/breeding.html Well, actually it wouldn't hurt to read the rest of the article as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 i did read the whole artical it helped me very much thanks. does he live in aus or ship to aus? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Tim Arndt is Canadian. I doubt he would be able to ship fish to Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 ok thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghengis Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 As B'azzi said, I'm not sure what "fairly large" means, but have you had a look at this Thread? http://ausaqua.net/forum/index.php?showtop...t=0&start=0 ...an idea that could easily be scaled up or down depending upon requirements... HTH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 im hoping to get around 20-50 jars. how exactly does the filter system work on that setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghengis Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 I really should be letting Divy explain all this, as it's his own work, but he appears to be not paying attention ( @ Divy)... It's hard to make out, but there are a couple holes in the bottom of each chamber, where the water flows into the rear cavity. You can see the filter/hoses/taps mounted inside that cavity; this is where the water is returned to the main chambers. Divy has also mounted a UV sterilizer in that chamber (optional), to aid with filtration... Not too sure how this would go with 20-50 jars, but, as I said above, the potential is there for growth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Justin do you want the setup to use as a display or is it purely practical? Fundamentally all shared water systems work on the same principle. Water from the chamber that the fish is in needs to be directed through filter media and then the filtered water needs to be returned to the main chamber. Do you want a multi-tiered system, ie several rows on top of each other and all using a single filter? Or each row has it's own filter. Divy's system if it was expanded would need separate filtration for each row. This is a link to my system. It's far from perfect and has a few issues but it sort of works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 i want it for jarring juveniles and for display. i would like it in a sort of tier form, Like shelving or something. I really like the look of your system do you have a uv light? are the heating cords under the gutter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divy Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 im here ghengis lol, but yeah ghengis pretty much explained how my system works if you want to hold around 50 bettas i think bettarazzi's barracks is the way to go im pretty sure b/azzi has one or two heaters in the sump where the filter is but wait for him to reply he will be able to explain his set-up for you check these 2 sites out they explain how they built there barracks http://baker.ws/bunkhouse/bunkhouse.html http://www.ibcbettas.org/StadBylawsForms/NewbySystem.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 do you have a uv light? are the heating cords under the gutter? I've got a power filter kind of UV in the sump. Heaters are only in the sump now. I did have heating cords in the gutter. Well they're still there but turned off because the warm water in the gutters was just causing too much humidity in the room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 That Bakers Betta Bunkhouse link that divy posted is pretty much how mine works. It's just that mine is in a slightly different configuration to maximise the space available. The way I've got mine 3 rows deep is quite inconvenient actually. So avoid it if you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 That Bakers Betta Bunkhouse link that divy posted is pretty much how mine works. It's just that mine is in a slightly different configuration to maximise the space available. The way I've got mine 3 rows deep is quite inconvenient actually. So avoid it if you can. ok so have you just drilled holes in your beanie boxes and it drains out of them into your gutters down into your sump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Yep. I've actually got holes on opposite sides of each box. The fish have a tendency to lean against the hole and block it off. So having another hole a little bit higher on the opposite side means that if the primary hole gets blocked off the other one will come into play. There's another unsatisfactory thing. The flow isn't strong enough to completely move the solid waste out of the box. This was more of a problem at the beginning before the tank was properly cycled. Fish poop would stay in the box and eventually grow fungus. But now that the system has been going a few weeks the poop seems to break down faster than it grows fungus. But I'd still prefer if it would get drawn out of the box so that it breaks down in the filter. I'm thinking of gluing another piece of plastic about 5-6 mm in front of one of the sides with the hole and raised a few mm off the floor so that water is forced to go from the floor of the box and up this chimney. I'm not completely convinced that this will be enough to move the poop out. So I haven't tried it yet. It will also be a pain to glue the pieces in. So I'm procrastinating quite a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghengis Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 I'm thinking of gluing another piece of plastic about 5-6 mm in front of one of the sides with the hole and raised a few mm off the floor so that water is forced to go from the floor of the box and up this chimney. I'm not completely convinced that this will be enough to move the poop out. So I haven't tried it yet. It will also be a pain to glue the pieces in. So I'm procrastinating quite a lot. Diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 would'nt you need the holes about 1/3 of the way up so if theres a power cut then all the water does'nt drain out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 so do you have the holes high enough so that if there is a power short all the water out of the beanie boxes isn't drained out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 So the baffle idea works like this. No problem about the water flowing that way but whether or not the poop will follow is a different story. You will have noticed that betta poop sinks. It doesn't float around and I'm not convinced there's enough water pressure to make it flow up the baffle and out of the box. This idea is based on the Aquatic Habitats self cleaning tanks. But you'll see that their tanks are a different shape. Long rather than tall. And the back wall behind the baffle isn't perpendicular. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin88 Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 is that the answer to me or the other guy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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