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Chuckie

Dosage for Avitrol (worming)

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Can anyone please advise the actual dose? Is it 2 - 3 drops per litre? MTIA :) :)

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and what is the water change regime after the dose is added? Thanks guys, I am ever grateful :(

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At least 50% water change 24hrs after treating with a massive gravel vac. The more water you can remove the better though according to articles I've read (even to the point of emptying the tank) as it increases the chance of removing all expelled eggs and worms to prevent re-infection. Also its a good idea to feed high fiber foods immediately after treating in order to expel any dead worms that may still be in the gut of the fish. If they don't pass them they have a good chance of getting ill due to dead worms decomposing in their gut.

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hmmm... i just came back from the aquarium and no one had the faintest clue what avitrol was :( I'm just wondering, is this a bird wormer? I did manage to get my hands on sterazin .... can these be used in conjunction with each other?

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your right Mishy..its an avian bird wormer.. also used for cattle I think. I got mine from a stockfeeders. I'm not sure about combining the two meds though.. I probably wouldn't.

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Avitrol Plus, comes in tablets (too hard to dose the bettas with i think) or a water soluble syrup designed for birds. I used 2-3 drops on the fish with camellanus, and had no ill effects, but the dose rate worked out to be 1-2 drops/L I should imagine its got a fairly high safety margin, and that you could probably double or triple the dose without losing the fish, but i wouldn't suggest trying as it is still a poison and it wasn't designed with fish in mind (although its awfully useful!) I wouldn't use it with Sterazin, simply because I haven't got the faintest idea what is IN sterazin. Waterlife guard that info fiercely :lol: When you are dosing any wormer, as Mouse said, do a 50% - 70% waterchange the day after with a good gravel vac, and then DOSE AGAIN in 7 days. If there were encysted eggs that the wormer missed first time, it will get them the 2nd time around. :) If you are having trouble with a lot of bio-scum on the top of the water, add a drop of melafix and it should break it up. If you suspect a worm infestation, adding something like melafix is probably a good idea anyway, as the worms and the worming process give the immune system a flogging.

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and I think Abbey or Mouse suggested a feed of some pellets/worms rolled in TC afterwards to treat any internal damage - what are people's thoughts on that? Should it happen as a matter of course, or only if the fish looks "poorly" as my Grandma would have said?

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That was Abbey suggestion, but I'd totally agree with it in a known infestation case. If your just worming routinely and don't see any signs that they did have worms then I wouldn't. One of the problems associated with worms is the possibility that the fish might not pass the dead worms either soon enough, or not at all and they start to rot in the gut causing a bacterial infection. Also some worms actually attach themselves to the gut and leave wounds which are susceptable to infection. Feeding high fibre diets and AB treatment (in known cases of infestation) after worming are a good idea.

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That was mainly for camellanus, as tey leave wounds in the gut where they attach. with some animals with a heavy worm burden, i've heard it suggested that you half-dose the drug on the first day, then wait two, then full dose. the theory being it will pass a few on the first day (or they'll go into "breed or die" mode) leaving it possible to pass the remainder of the burden later. I think this originated from the treatment of dogs with heartworm, but it sounds reasonable, and it yet another option to explore :)

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Whem I wormed my Guppies 8 days ago with Sterazin, one guppy dropped a massive worm and died the next day. All the guppies dropped big poops/worms but are fine. I just dosed them at 1 drop per litre yesterday with Avitrolplus Syrup as I have been told Sterazin is not strong enough. Because it is a QT tank, there is no gravel or plants, which is easy to keep clean.

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Does this affect biological filtration? I ask because I need to treat a tank with an UGF. I also have a kuhli in there.

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I treated my 4ft and didn't experience any ammonia spikes or anything after so I don't think so. It wasn't something I stopped to consider at the time actually. I just saw the worms & freaked :cheer:

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I did mine on half dose, twice, 7 days apart. I think someone ended up with a bunch of dead CLs once using this drug though, so wait for a bit more feedbaack :lol:

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Hi all,

Sought permission from Lilli to put up a link to another forum. The article is specifically about Camellanus worms:

I read the entire thread which was a great read, especially the post by "Specimen001".

The Ivomec product he's speaking about, we've used for decades on our cattle & horses with outstanding success.

FYI: http://www.qldaf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f...26&start=60

For those who've tried Avitrol & the other one that's name escapes me, his method could just be the go.

Alternatively, I'll also add the contents of an email I received re Avitrol dosage & procedure:

For the tablet form the dosage is 1 tablet per 10 litres of aquarium water and for the liquid form it is 1ml per 5 litres (I have never personally used the liquid form).

It is best to dose the tank on a day when you will be around. From the time you add the treatment it can take less than 6 hours for the worms to start being excreted from the fish. During this time you need to keep a vigilant watch on them. This is because both the above medications paralise the worms, forcing them to release their hold on the intestinal walls and then be passed out of the body. It does not kill them. They then fall to the bottom of the tank, and will become food if they are not syphoned out of the tank, then continuing the cycle.

Step 1.

Work out the correct dosage . Do NOT add extra. Adding extra of these meds will not speed up the process, it will only cause more stress to your fish.

Step 2.

Add the correct dosage and regularly check the fish from about 4hrs after treatment. The majority of the worms will be excreted within 24 hours. Make sure you vacuum up any that you can see lying on the bottom of the tank as they will get eaten, continuing the cycle. Do not do a water change now as you will only be removing the med from the water too soon.

Step 3.

Do a water change on day 3. This is because the meds takes approx 3 days to be absorbed and have the remainder excreted by the fish. Don’t do a large water change, just approximately 30% will do fine. Doing a larger one will only add more unnecessary stress on the fish.

Step 4.

This step is a relatively easy one. 2 weeks after first treatment, repeat steps 1-3 again. This is just to make sure that any eggs that may have hatched will be taken care of.

Step 5.

This is only recommended, it is up to you if you do it or not, but I recommend repeating the treatment again 2 weeks later. The treatment schedule should be: first treatment, 2nd treatment (2 weeks after 1st treatment) and 3rd treatment (2 weeks after 2nd treatment). I like to do this just to be 100% certain of removing all traces of these worms.

anyone that says it doesnt work hasnt tried it.

cheers

Edited by BettaBetta

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I think Abbey or Mouse suggested a feed of some pellets/worms rolled in TC afterwards to treat any internal damage - what are people's thoughts on that?

Also its a good idea to feed high fiber foods immediately after treating in order to expel any dead worms that may still be in the gut of the fish. If they don't pass them they have a good chance of getting ill due to dead worms decomposing in their gut.

What would be recommended

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Recommended high fibre foods? We normally use peas. I just grab one out of the freezer and thaw it out. Remove the outer skin, squish into smaller pieces and feed it to your betta.

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