Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 fishbites promised to give everyone glass cutting and tank building tips. I've seen how people use masking tape to ensure a clean finish. Here are some of the things I'd like more details on and I'm sure other people have questions as well. - When I cut glass there are all these tiny slivers of glass everywhere. What's the best way to handle this? - I can see how using masking tape to hold the tank together while the silicone cures works with a small (under 10 litres) tank, but if you want to make something a bit larger, what's the best way to keep the sides in place. - I've used wet/dry sandpaper to manually smooth off sharp edges but I've got bored (and quite tired) well before I got an edge like a bought tank. Only managed to get it so you didn't cut yourself instantly but still not entirely blunt. What are the other affordable ways of doing this? I'll think of more questions later I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Don't know how you snuck this one in Michael...... Only just saw it amongst the 'junk mail' Here are the thoughts of a madman and if anyone else knows better please add to this thread so we can keep this as a reference for people who want to build tanks, cut lids, etc.... When I cut glass there are all these tiny slivers of glass everywhere. What's the best way to handle this? These little slivers of glass come about due to the crushing action of the cutting wheel of the glass cutter as you draw it across the glass surface. I find using a professional grade cutter such as an oil filled Toyo or KStar cutter reduces these slivers. The oil that is fed to the cutting wheel tends to stop the slivers from flying and the glass is easily wiped off afterwards. Always use a large flat area when cutting glass - either the dining table or the floor and sacrifice an old sheet or blanket to use under the glass (leave a surround of at least 1 metre to catch any flying glass).... once the cutting / sanding is finished the sheet / blanket can be gone over with a vacuum cleaner to suck up the fine glass - do not re use this blanket for sleeping purposes! I can see how using masking tape to hold the tank together while the silicone cures works with a small (under 10 litres) tank, but if you want to make something a bit larger, what's the best way to keep the sides in place. I've actually used masking tape to hold tanks up to 175 litres (6mm glass - 3 x 18 x 18) together while the silicone cures.... If you want a firmer way to do this on a quick and easy basis - get some old pavers / bricks and put them on each side of the tank (put something between them and the glass) and do the same on the inside of the tank for each wall. If you go to the wood working tools section of your hardware store you will find CORNER CLAMPS similar to this one - which can be used to hold the tops of each corner of the tank.... or you could make up a wooden jig to do the same if you have a router or saw and chisel.... I've used wet/dry sandpaper to manually smooth off sharp edges but I've got bored (and quite tired) well before I got an edge like a bought tank. Only managed to get it so you didn't cut yourself instantly but still not entirely blunt. What are the other affordable ways of doing this? Sand paper (cloth backed) on a flat block of wood is the best for taking the sharp edge off glass so it's safe to handle. You can also use a diamond stone which will last a fair while. I have also got a diamond file which takes the edges off quickly but roughly until I get the time to sand the edges. A belt sander works really well rather than doing the job manually (but the sandpaper wears out a lot)..... for small jobs the easiest fast way to bevel the edges is using a dremel type machine with a grinding stone on it. If you want a pro job get a glazier to do it - takes minutes and looks great even if you only get the top edges done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 What kind of ruler do you use? I find using a metal ruler impedes the movement of the cutter because the wheel is small and tiny axle gets caught. I've tried using a plastic ruler wrong way up but then it's hard to get an exact line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 (edited) What kind of ruler do you use? I find using a metal ruler impedes the movement of the cutter because the wheel is small and tiny axle gets caught. I've tried using a plastic ruler wrong way up but then it's hard to get an exact line. Depending on the size of the glass I'm cutting.... I have a triangle with a lip on the edge that allows me to slide it along the edge of the glass to the point I need to cut and then it becomes my straight edge... for anything longer than the triangle (about 40cm) I have an aluminium ruler with felt under it - this is good for 60cm and where I need to go longer I use a spirit level or anything else long enough that I can put some non-slip mat underneath (to stop it slipping) For longer pieces of glass its easier to use a speed cutter but they an be expensive for the better quality cutters.... On a good quality glass cutter, the side of the head should run smoothly along the straight edge you are using - when measuring I allow 2mm for the width of the head to the actual cut. The wheel is well protected by the head and there is no axel protruding from the head in a good cutter.... To start runs its always worth getting a pair of running pliers - I wouldn't be without them.... I should try to take some pics shouldn't i? Edited May 2, 2011 by fishbites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Just had a look at my cutter. Mine does have an axel but actually it's quite flush, it's just the edge of the head that scrapes and kinda slips off the ruler if you know what I mean. Are those tools, the cutter, pliers etc available at bunnings? Or only at specialist suppliers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 lol... no, there are few hardware stores that sell decent glass cutters - tried all that the store you mentioned have to offer locally and have thrown them all in the bin. I get mine from a glaziers supplier locally (was referred to them by a mate so get to buy direct). The Toyo cutters are around $30 each but found some on ebay for $18 just now. The running pliers I got off ebay for about $10 or $12 (the pro running pliers are around $80!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Bought the cutter but the pliers were $21 with shipping. There was another that sounded like a combo of running pliers and grozing but not sure. It looked different but was only $14 with shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com.au:80/Stained-Glass-Leadlight-Tools-Craft-Grozing-Pliers-/120713670356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c1b186ed4&autoredirect=off#ht_3902wt_827 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Razzi those pliers are only good for small bits of glass as in leadlighting applications - they are good if you are only breaking off about 20mm width of glass from the edge of a sheet.... Good running pliers aren't cheap unfortunately but they make cutting glass sooooooooo easy.... the other pliers I mentioned will start a run in up to 6mm glass easily and keep it going for up to about 4ft easily.... (have done it myself).... might be worth seeing if anyone else wants to buy a couple down there and share postage.... These are plastic running pliers - German made for up to 6mm glass and are about $3 cheaper - and these pliers look the same but not sure if they're German made or a knock off but they are about $5 cheaper than the metal ones with the rubber jaw covers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I'm not in a hurry so I'll keep looking until I see the same ones with cheaper shipping. A local seller might pop up. Or I might see what the local glass suppliers are like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Dunno what I was thinking when I said I'd wait. I've bought the Bohle plastic ones. I want a Dremel now. Then I can line up all my German tools and talk like Colonel Klink. LOL But the Dremels seem confusing and $129??? What else can I use it for other than grinding glass? Had been thinking about buying a cordless reversing drill because my drill is old and only goes one way. Does the Dremel drill as well? Have to bear in mind that I'm not so much a DIY person as a therapeutic shopper. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I say nuthing!!!! I see nothing!!!! If you don't want to pay for a Dremel - there are other similar brands for much less cost.... with a Dremel you can put lots of holes in things and engrave things and generally have a lot of fun cutting, grinding, sanding small items. Because its hand held its easier to control than a traditional drill.... Dremels have lots of useful little attachments such as diamond burrs and sanding drums and grinding stones, etc... A Dremel won't drill big holes (usually limits itself to about 4mm or so) and its advantage over a cordless drill is a Dremel runs at about 10000 rpm whereas a cordless drill only runs at about 3000 rpm (not as good for grinding). Two totally different uses. Get both :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettarazzi Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I love starting new hobbies. Maybe I can find one that needs a Dremel as the primary tool. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 get a dremel and you could become the guy who puts the holes in swiss cheese :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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