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Posts posted by Brenton

  1. Nothing really valid about my approach - I'm just lazy and it works, but it is a lot slower. More water changes plus regular high protein feds equals faster growing fry - that's been proven time after time.

    However, having said that, there is a theory floating around that slower grown fry equal longer living Betta. This is taking for granted that at least minimal good fishkeeping practises are maintained, of course (feeding, water changes, general health requirements). Long life has also been attributed to plenty of stimulus for the fish, interaction with both other fish and the keeper - not just during water changes and feeds.

    So just combine all that in a method that works for you and your situation and you, and your fish, should be fine :)

    • Like 1

  2. Hi Ineke

    I'm going to take a stab in the dark and say you know Jay :)

    He contacted me recently about his "shrimp mama" and her wish to give Betta a go in SA - welcome to the forum...you've come to the right place!

    Unfortunately, lavender jumbo (or big ear, or ee) plakats aren't my specialty.

    I'm located in the northern suburbs and am currently playing with Crowntail plakat lines and a line of white doubletail plakats.

    Feel free to look me up on Facebook

    See you around the boards


    • Like 1

  3. F2 - 20140902a - Recessive Line - week 13

    Have released Mr Big back into the general population now that the siblings have grown up somewhat. Although I'm pretty sure Mr Big is actually Ms Big ;)

    Mr Big: 3.0cm

    Average: 2.1cm

    F1 - 20140902b - White DTHMPK Line - week 13

    Mr Big: 2.8cm

    Average: 2.2cm

  4. All fry are now on defrosted, ungrated bloodworm (ran out of blackworm and it's difficult to find in Adelaide).

    Growth increases are obvious...it took a while for them to take to the grated bloodworm but ever since, they have they have gone off!

    Must do everything I can in future to get them onto it earlier.

    F2 - 20140902a - Recessive Line - week 12

    Mr Big: 2.8cm

    Average: 1.9cm

    F1 - 20140902b - White DTHMPK Line - week 12

    Mr Big: 2.6cm

    Average: 2.0cm

  5. Thought I'd revisit this thread as it's been a while and my goals have become a little more focused and less pie in the sky or so grandiose :)

    Goal 1: Green CT's

    Still is and will always remain a central goal, but is now focused solely on the use of CTPK's.

    Current stock:

    F1 Male midfin to be crossed with his sister (male is blue marble with heavy black influence. Female is turquoise)

    F2 male CTPK (female sibling passed before spawning could be arranged - will cross with female DTPK instead)

    Associated stock:

    DTPK spawn in growout tanks to improve form

    F2 CTPK recessive line to remove red wash

    Goal 2: Black/white Butterfly CT's

    This is a new one the wife has recently laid on me, but after looking around, I can see why she loves them. Still on the back burner.

    I currently have no stock to work this line.

    At some point I will need:

    - Butterfly stock...preferably black and white
    - Should be able to work in the CTPK DT and recessive lines into this project to give me the webbing reduction, form, and colouration...need to be careful of cambo or I could lose the black on the body.

    Side Quests

    Yellow Dragon half sun - possible result from the recessive line

    A black CTPK line - this is becoming my winter project. The Black Orchid CTPK line currently stands at F2 with Pairs ready for F3

    A pastel/platinum line - possible side result of recessive line

    I still have a MG male on the side lines (may become another winter project alongside the black orchids.)

    And I have two females I would love to work into the projects that I've hung onto for quite sometime now. One is a lovely green HM girl - her green is very good and would do well in enhancing my hunt for green line...it's just finding the right time to work it in. The second girl is a green dragon. Her green is only present on the last third of her body and all of her caudal. She's a little over a year old now and the result of one of my first successful spawns. She's almost a pet really, but I'd love to give her a shot in the spawn tank at some point. I also have a male Gold HMPK....but these girls and boys may never get their chance to shine because I have no space and no time to do all the lines I want :(

    ....the green dragon girl with the gold male could be interesting though....

  6. Must be my eyes (no surprise there :) )

    P0...now there's a question...

    Technically, I guess it could be referred to as P0, but it's more like introducing new blood into your already underway line so F3 wouldn't be too big a stretch either...

    Raz - anyone - is there an additional convention for continuing the filial generation count but marking when new blood is introduced?










    or maybe










    EDIT: IO knew I'd had this conversation before....http://www.ausaqua.net/index.php/topic/15345-bts-goals/page-2

    • Like 1

  7. Totally agree with Jarrod, although the dark background could be disguising her edges...is she cello on the ends?

    If you could get a male with good reduction to compliment her...I'd go with the first girl.

    I may have a black orchid CTPK male who could work with her....if you don't have a suitable fella :)

    • Like 1

  8. Thanks J - this spawn and the DT spawn are pretty critical in the overall plans for all my spawns - to gain better form through the intro of the DT and to reduce wash from the intro of the nr1 gene and/or the red-loss gene from this spawn.

    They have now been split across growouts and spawn tanks so there is less population pressure within the tanks...even more so now that Mr Big, from this spawn, decided he'd eat all his smallest kin while I was away for a few days with the better half...

    From a massive spawn of 400+, I've only got 80-100 left I think...

    The spawning side I've got figured out I think (thanks to your chats on conditioning), but I've got a ways to go on rearing the fry successfully. Still, it gives me something to continue working on while I play Dr Frankenstein ;)

  9. Big whoops - been on holidays so I've missed a week

    F2 - 20140902a - Recessive Line - week 10

    Mr Big: 1.9cm

    Average: 1.2cm

    F1 - 20140902b - White DTHMPK Line - week 10

    Mr Big: 2.0cm

    Average: 1.6cm

    Finally got around to moving some into the freed up growouts

    F2 - 20140902a - Recessive Line - week 11

    I have very few small ones left in one of the tanks as Mr Big decided he'd go snack on his siblings while I was away, and my son didn't realise the numbers were dwindling. These guys have finally been moved over to grated blood worm and I've introduced live black worm. I'm hoping to see a vast improvement on growth now...

    I have about 50 or so in a grow out tank. There's around 30 left in one spawn tank but I'll be splitting these up over two spawn tanks soon. Mr Big is in a floating container as penance for his snacking. Not sure what to do with him now. He's not big enough to jar, but too big for his siblings...

    Nearly all fry have shown, or are showing, red in the unpaired fins, but only around the edge where the fin meets the body. Mr Big has lost that red line leading me to the thought that Red-Loss is present in this spawn. Still hoping to see some yellow appear at some point on those that have never shown the red line.

    Mr Big: 2.2cm

    Average: 1.3cm

    F1 - 20140902b - White DTHMPK Line - week 11

    All fry have now been split and are in two growout tanks. They are also on the grated blood worm/live black worm diet.

    Mr Big: 2.1cm

    Average: 1.6cm

  10. I've managed to get to about 50/50 with successful attempts now, but most of my initial attempts failed. I took to heart suggestions that I revisit my conditioning regime to the point I now keep my fish unconditioned unless getting ready to spawn them...that is, my guys and girls only get one fed of pellets each night if they're not in conditioning. When I'm ready to spawn, I begin conditioning by changing the diet to blood worm or black worm 3-4 times a day and a keep that up for a week before introducing the pair, and then they are still kept separate for a few days while being introduced.

    It normally only takes 2-3 days from putting them into the same tank before they begin wrapping now-a-days.

    Just something to think about to increase your chances :)

    Good luck with your next attempt!

    • Like 1

  11. Excellent work, J - but can I refer to the article BETTA GENETICS PART VI By GENE LUCAS, GIAA where he states:

    The long-finned variation is obviously not normal, even if it has been in existence since before Bettas were introduced into the western world. Though it is quite variable in expression, it is rather easy to determine in most fish …it either is the long-finned type or is not. It was investigated and reported on briefly by Eberhardt (1941) who suggested the genetic symbol P (for the German "pratchtig" … which roughly means "splendid"). The symbol seems to me to be the most appropriate so I do not suggest a change. I have crossed long-finned domestic fish with short-finned wild types and I got long-finned progeny in the first generations. I was able to get short-finned type in F2 crosses (brother-sister matings from the above spawns). This indicates that the character is inherited and inherited as a Medelian dominant to short (or normal). This agrees with Eberhardt’s report.

    So, should we be using P for long fin and p for short fin?

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