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rainbowfish

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About rainbowfish

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    Archer Fish

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    Hobbyist
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    birds, horses, plants, fish, animals, gothic/alternative music/ lifestyle
  1. Hornwort it mops up excess nutrients algea love and over a time helps reduce algea blooms (not overnight but it will) plus it is easy easy easy to grow as easy as java moss only it grows a lot faster in fact it can grow too fast and take over but its easy to trim or remove chuck excess in a bucket or pond or sell it. It has no roots but you push the bottom into a pot or substate tie it to something to hold it down etc or let it float on the surface it will reduce the lighting a bit though if you do that. I have buckets of it growing in a dark corner somewhere it dosnt die it is like day of the triffids in those buckets. Also frogbit is a surface plant usually grown in ponds but you can grow it in a fishtank it dosnt take over like duckweed and it is more attractive with hanging roots baby fish love it too. I grow Crypts in a tank with only sand and gravel as substrate never used any fancy root tabs or soil they do great. Fish poo in the substrate plus some liquid ferts and co2 is all I use. Co2 in a bottle works just fine I use API.
  2. I swear by UVC's for a bigger tank with lots of stuff and plants and fish I run 39 wats on my 4 foot and I am busy a lot so don't have time for managing anoying problems like algea. Ok it does not and cannot kill algea on surfaces that is already growing there but what it has done for my tank is drastically slow down the spread of any algea outbreak. Since spores and stuff travel through the water to invade other places if it passes through the uvc it kills it and helps break the cycle. If you set the UV up at the start before any algea is present you should have less problems unless you put things in the tank like I do without treating them first. I have had a minor hair/thread algea problem for a while, it just grows along some plants and mosses closer to the surface near the lighting it can take over a tank in a very short time, it hasnt done that in my tank. I clean it off with a toothbrush now and then. I occasionally get some green spot (the green spot algea actually is not 'algea' it is a little water critter that has calcium shell that feeds on stuff on the glass and surfaces. The algea grows on or under it thats why its hard to clean off. Even that hasn't spread very much at all. I have not done a water change on this tank since setup either since there are only a few tiny fish in it and I'm lazy. I never check PH or anything, it's mostly a display tank for plants and experimenting with home collected driftwood etc. It has CO2 injection a Co2 monitor that says all that is good, I add extra Co2 in a bottle and fertiliser. The plants are crypts, one tiny anubis, lots of java moss on wood and terracotta, some ferns, some pink baby tears some varieties of rotala the red one macaranda I think Hornwort (said to reduce algea because it sucks a lot of nutrients) some other plants I forget the name of. It also houses a baby ghost knife, a bristnose 2 female betta and a snail. No canister filter, just a powerhead pulling water slowly through 2 sponge filters and then through the UVC and back in at the other end. No oxegen pump because it died and I couldnt be bothered replacing it. 90 wats of fluro built in lighting on probably more than 8 hours a day plus coloured effects light. Never had green water, lots of tannins from driftwood and only small amounts of hair algea on some surfaces and a few green spots. If I do some water changes, improve the filter and add some more algea eaters I might not have much algea at all. Some algea in a tank is good. If you have plants and some small areas of algea that isnt causing a problem it will help prevent more invasive algea from growing. There just wont be enough nutrients in the water for any new algeas to get a foothold. Starving algea out from the get go is the best way and controlling it with UV and water quality (please do water changes I am just lazy) you shouldn't have a problem. My tank is also not 'heavily' planted. I only put a small amount of baby plants in to grow out. Once they fill out and get bigger I should also have less algea. I have noticed in other tanks that I use LED lighting on I have virtually no algea at all or only just under the lighting and I leave some of them on 24 hours a day.
  3. tetracyline (that nearly killed a fish so I only used it once and then changed the water out when he hit the bottom and a few days later he was ok) tripple sulfa, blackwater, IAL, salt, methalene blue baths thats everything I had been told. The fins are not dissapearing though, just stuck at the tips it dosn't seem to effect them any other way their healthy otherwise. Sometimes its only one fin it gets like a point on it at the back Ive been trying to put pictures from photobucket but photobucket isn't working for me I have internet problems, I'll keep trying. It only effects some fish never females or plakats very slightly some CT with really long fins. Once the tips stick it dosnt progress or get any worse but they just stay like that.
  4. I have a problem, well I have had a problem ongoing with my veiltails this seems to only effect veiltails and a few 'spadetails' where the tips of the fins stick together. Sometimes they curl a little but not always. There is no rot, the fins don't fall off or get shorter or appear damaged except they are stuck together and don't hang and flow anymore. I have had 4 like this now for 6 months so it obviously isn't something fatal one even spawned like that but the fry all died wether it is because he had that condition or not I don't know. A few tanks have never been effected despite my laziness with dunking bits in and out of tanks so it dosnt appear to be catching. I only test PH and amonia and PH is always between 6.5 and 7 and amonia is 0 Most of my boys are in cycled divided tanks and a few in individual tanks all have heaters and most have filters. None of the fish that have had this have died or got ill. It does not effect females and does not effect plakats. I have 1 crowntail that had a little curling on some rays but no loss of finnage. I have tried so far everything suggested for finrot and finmelt with no success in getting the fins to 'unstick' antibiotics were useless. Salt makes no difference, IAL made no difference, Methalene blue made no difference water changes or not, makes no difference. It is very frustrating, watching my once beautifull fish turn ugly and not knowing why or how to fix it. Their diet is pros choice betta pellets, mozzie wrigglers and whatever small bugs land in their water. Our water is very clean from shoalhaven river PH out of the tap is always 7 Ive kept other fish in it just fine with no adjustments I don't add anything I age the water in a heated tub ready for use its changed and topped up once a week it has a lid so nothing else gets in to pollute it. Water movemnet in the tanks is minimal, lots of plants, minimal algea problems in one tank close to a strong light. I have some with power filters with the flow turned way down, and sponge filters. I did wonder if maybe they were not flaring and excersising enough Im often too busy to show them other boys to get fired up could this have something to do with it? My tanks have dividers that are hard to see through. Sarah
  5. If there are any members south of Sydney Illawarra - Shoalhaven, or further down who might like to network or start a social group for Betta's and other fish maybe who feel a bit isolated I was thinking of trying to get something going. I know a few people who might be keen already and was going to try and advertise through local aquarium stores like the one at South Nowra. Reply here or email me with any ideas or interest. The kinds of things I was thinking for the group would be meet ups, sell and swap fish and plants etc maybe a facebook page. Maybe breeders educating and spreading more interest in the hobby and sharing ideas and methods of betta keeping and breeding. Sarah
  6. I have a few that are just complete duds with any female I have a real nice boy that ignores females completely.
  7. I put danios, rosie barbs and some silver cats in my outdoor pond one summer to clean up mozzies and algea then forgot about them for a long time over winter south of sydney I never check outside water temperature but it gets cold. Anyway the following summer I cleaned the pond and they were still there a few extra and BIG maybe because it was outside and they had live food and lots of leaves and mud in the water I don't know but it was interesting. They died after I put them back in a tank a while later. Sarah
  8. I have found them the best of all the mini heaters Ive tried, and more reliable than the reptile mats they fluctuate the temperature too much, and the plastic ones cant seem to keep water above 24c. I am hoping more brands will bring out small heaters and eventually some adjustable ones. It is harder to keep temperature stable in small tanks anyway I still try and keep the room warm as much as possible and I find keeping the tanks in one area with lights etc generate enough heat to keep things more stable. I have got away with having unheated jars on a shelf with heated tanks around them and they seem to stay warm enough, until my barraks is done but I will always have individual display tanks to heat and I like them to look good without trying to jam some bulking great big heater in there.
  9. Nike it is lol good one. Nothing happened :(
  10. The 10w was about $15 the 25 about $18? near that I forget I got them from Pet and Aquarium warehouse at South Nowra NSW.
  11. The plakats spawned this afternoon I saw a lot of eggs. They look like they might go for round 2. I havnt given up hope on the CT he is still nest building and the young female has been comming over assuming the position but he keeps chasing her off. Silly boy just do it!
  12. I bought 2 from local LFS a 10w and a 25w they also have a 50w they are preset to 26c and non adjustable however unlike other non adjustable mini heaters (the black plastic type) these actually work better they are glass just smaller than the normal size heaters and fit in very small places and are a colour grey that dosnt stick out, easy to hide. Not sure how well they will work in the winter but if the house is warm they should be good. I have the 10w in a tiny 5L acrylic tank and the 25w in a halea 8L all in one tank and both read between 25c and 26c on cooler days. Normal room temp now is 25c anyway but the fish all seem happy. If your looking for something for a single betta tank or a very small tank I recomend these. So just thought I would mention these in case you havn't seen them yet I think they are a new thing. Sarah
  13. He tried so hard to impress the ladies I have tried 2 females one experienced and one younger girl. Both barred up but they won't come out of hiding no matter what. He started out very exited and now he is looking sad. He tends his nest and wiggles now and then but it dosn't look like a go ahead Why is it always the fish you want to spawn the most that go wrong? Maybe it is his looks... he is huge black/red with the biggest fins on a CT I have ever seen. First female I tried was a blue red dragon. He damaged her side fin I had to pull her out then a little green girl she was too scared. My only other female is in with a plakat male and they look like they will get down to buisness by morning. *sigh* This CT always has a nest on the go too since I got him. I think I need tougher girls.
  14. The good news is I saved the Dad, it was a close call the tetracycline just didn't agree with him, seemed to help a few others that had the fin melt but switched back to tri sulfa as they all went off food. It has been a little while now treating fish I had to keep pushing the dose up to a ridiculous level to beat this fin melt I won't even say how much it's one of those cases of fix or kill + enough salt to rival the dead sea, water changes every 12 hours or sooner and that seems to be finally doing the job. I am seeing improvement and new fin growth, but I doubt the damaged parts will ever look the same. I am setting up a few new spawn tanks, getting them cycled hopefully in another few weeks Dad will be ready to try again. This time I am going to split the spawn once they are free swimming and move some into other tanks so if something goes wrong in one I won't loose the lot, because that really really sucked. I just hope the amount of antibiotics hasnt effected his boy parts At least they are alive and otherwise healthy.
  15. Well their all dead over 200 of them, came home whole tank of dead fry. Dad broke with fin melt after I took him out nothing is fixing it he just had a bad reaction to tetracycline and he has crashed. I'm over it before I get anywhere not buying anymore of these fish, too much misery.
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