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DenningA.Rajit

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About DenningA.Rajit

  • Rank
    Mangrove Jack

Profile Information

  • Status
    Hobbyist
  • Currently Breeding
    Yes, Bettas
  • Interests
    Halfmoon, Crowntails, Halfmoon plakat
  1. Well done on the CT spawn. I am sure some of the boys/girls will have good form even some balloon ray extension.
  2. fry all grown up now. Have about 15 - 20 fry survived to jarring stage.
  3. Okay. I am reviving this post once more which was posted up by myself a while back. I am now thinking of experimenting a spawn of a HM DT male x with DT Show PK female. Do you guys think that is a good idea?
  4. Its been awhile. Thought of updating this log as it is due for some. fry I think roughly 6 week old. I lost count on how many weeks they are since the holidays started. Too much merrying and sleeping and busy with real life to take note of that Most of the babies are showing white bodied with butterfly bands. Some pale bodied with red fins and some show a touch of teal on their bodies and blue fins. I don't have photos of them at this stage as I am waiting for them to grow up faster for me to jar them up.
  5. The largest of the fry are showing ventrals. They are approximately 3 - 4 weeks of age. I decided to limit the feed of bbs and start them on grindal worms. Hopefully the runt will catch up and largest of the fry will develop nicely. Brenton, some measurement for you. Largest fry measured approx. 0.5 cm The largest of the runt approx. 0.3 cm. Will be transferring them into a 100 litre tub soon once my pay day arrives. Colour of the fry range from copper with some butterfly bands to iridiscent blues. Some fry are showing potential with large caudal and some are showing broad dorsal. Can't wait for them to reach to 8 - 10 week old when I can see and cull the fry that doesnt match my breeding goals.
  6. Some old shots of the males that were from this spawn.
  7. Photo of babies from this spawn from my phone camera. Lots of smaller size about 3 or 4 fast growers.
  8. Brenton, Thank you for your observation. I am not familiar with the dragon coverage in bettas. I will have to wait and see how the fry turn out to confirm its coverage. At the moment, its really an experiment F1 spawn.
  9. Thanks for the like Brenton, The male is not a dragon but it has the lineage of dragon genes in him from the father which was evidently found in his siblings. Both male and female carries the metallic/lavender gene. Babies are now 2 to 3 weeks old. Aiming to see if I can get some of the babies ready for the next vic ibc show next year.
  10. Current HMPK spawn I am working on Male Female
  11. I divide and card before putting them into the spawn tank. When in the spawn tank, I let pair in the tank (female in the tube) until the male has built his nest. Once the nest is built, I will release the female and leave them to do their own thing. They will breed once they are ready and not when we are ready. So, many times we always wish they breed when we are ready and it doesn't work. I think that is where the frustration comes in. The fish will breed if you condition well and card them well during conditioning stage, which could go for a week or 2 months. Conditioning stage also depend on the room temperature. If it is warmer, the fish will be more active which means they breed easier. Vice versa if it is colder, they will breed on colder months if you set the temperature right i.e. 28 degrees and the temperature in the tank is stable.
  12. Big azza, Firstly, I like to thank you for your contribution and sharing your experience on this topic. I started offering my food now when male and female are in the spawn tank if I want to breed them again in a couple weeks time. But, I'm still a bit cautious with that myself. I don't want the male to eat the eggs as well. I think having a foam cup and sticky tap it on the tank glass is a good idea especially if you want to move the fry into another tub so that the spawn tank can be used again. I am now trying bubble wrap under IAL leaves is another idea to use. This idea was contributed by Tigger (Jan) in one of our VIC betta meeting in how to keep IAL afloat for the duration of the spawn period. Also, I feed more live worms two weeks before I plan to spawn them. I usually aim for the last two weeks of the end of the month to feed live food and then the first two weeks of the new month, the pair will be in spawn tank and left to do their own thing. I learnt it will take a few more bites here and there before the female is ready to mate and it will take a while for the male to build his nest. I estimate roughly a week or two to get a nest big and attractive enough for the male to invite the female over to mate.
  13. fry did not survive because of a Noobie mistake. Take note, don't add cool water change too soon or else all the fry will be in shock and die. Will breed this pair again once weather warms up. Edit: I have started a new topic on what I had learn from conditioning and carding my bettas for spawn.
  14. Hey all, After some thought and a kind nudge, I thought I would share some of the ideas that I worked out how I condition my bettas for breeding and what I look for to know when it is time to put them into the spawn tank. I know we all have our own methods that works for us when we had finally selected our breeding stock for the next show year. For there are several factors I had find that helps in conditioning my bettas 1.) Live food 2.) Carding 3.) Frequent flare 4.) IAL 1.) Live food I normally feed my bettas Live black worms. The reason why is that sometimes the fishes I buy from the shop I notice are under weight. So, conditioning for a longer period with live food ensure that the body condition does improve before they are placed into the spawn tank. With black worms, they need to be kept in cooler temperature, which is why I had a compartment in my fridge just for the worms. Frequent water changes for black worms ensure they survive longer and less risk of any unwanted bacteria pass down to the fish. The idea is that if the worms are healthy and surviving, so will my fishes. Another thing about Live foods, some bettas that are placed in the shops maybe neglected for a week or two with no food or just been fed with pellets. This is why I start conditoning most of my bettas with live food as soon they arrive home to ensure they have a excellent start and hopefully breed for me. 2.) Carding In my opinion, carding is essential for a succesful spawn. I find that by carding the fish I want to breed with, both male and female fish tend to mature faster and their body condition improve lot more quickly. I think this happen because they do not have any competition and they 'are living in their own penhouse' that they can relax and chill and focus on putting more body weight for male and produce more eggs for females. Females too tend to show vertical bars regularly too because you are setting both fishes up to be the alpha male and female of the group. So, when they breed, in theory the alpha male and alpha female will breed readily. I rely on this theory too whenever I am ready to breed. 3.) Frequent flaring Flaring is important for exercise and sexual attraction. The male flares and show off his fins to the female to court the female. The female will flare back and show off her fins to the male. Some females will not flare back; firstly because she is not interested in the male, secondly she is too old to breed, third she is still need time to get use to the male. These are some of my observations. There is no hard rule why she is not flaring back. Some people have breed with female that never flared back at the male. But, for young virgin females, flaring at a male allow them to exercise their authority over their territory and becomes the dominant female. The female exert her dominant by swimming around in circles in the box and swimming straight at the male as if to charge at them just to see if the male notice that she is strong and healthy. While flaring is going on, eventually the male will stop flaring at the female and start doing a belly dance movement just under his bubble nest. In my eyes, he is ready to breed and he will breed with a female of my choosing. When I see that, I normally double check again with a separate female and see if he does the dance as well. Once confirmed, I normally put a mental note which fish will be used to breed if I wanted to breed more CT or more HM PK. 4.) IAL Indian Almond leaves tea extract or leaves are essential for keeping bettas. There are many websites that had mention how effective IAL is for spawning especially for bettas. Firstly, it creates a sticky film on the surface of the water to allow the bubble nest to stay up longer. Secondly, it creates a shady environment which betta love. Thirdly, it allows infusoria to multiply in the spawn tank which becomes the first food that the fry would eat. Fourth; antifungal properties in the IAL solution keeps the egg free from fungus. Fifth, it increases higher hatching rate due to its low acidic properties due to the release of tanin. Also, I don't stop using IAL just for spawning. I used the extract for daily maintenance when I am not showing my bettas. Having IAL extract in the beanie box on a daily basis allows the younger male to practice their art of making their bubble nest. The bigger and wider the nest is the more space there is for the male to blow the eggs into the nest. Also, I find that female tend to be more excited if the male builds a big nest. I start adding IAL into the boxes from the day 1 of carding till the day I decide to spawn. Well I hope that paint a picture of how I condition my betta to breed and some tell tale signs of male and female that i know that they are ready to breed. I conditon my bettas from the start of the LFS purchase date with black worms and male and female are ready to breed; by the tail wagging done by the male under his nest in his boxes and the constant flaring, darting and circling around by the female in her box. This observation is done during carding. IAL and flarring sessions are important to set the mood and allow both male and female to be sexually mature e.g. becoming alpha male and female. Any comments on this will be greatly appreciated. I am still learning and I am sure there are other methods that people had used that is different then mine which are succesful in their spawn tank.
  15. Male and female was introduced to spawn tank for 4 days. They were condition on black worms for nearly 2 months and a bit because of winter. Spawn possible commence at 1.55 pm Spawn complete possible around 3.30 or 4.00 pm Photos will be up once they are back into their beanie boxes. Female had a hard deal though. So, I'll need to medicate her as soon as they finish wrapping. Now, is the slow bit. Getting bbs hatchery up and running again. Back to the grind once more.
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