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Posts posted by shadoh

  1. I have a 10 bay barracks, 12 bay barracks and a 4 bay barracks that I keep my breeding pairs in. When I spawn, I try to keep back at least 2 or 3 males and a half dozen females that I thow into the sorority tank. Of course, there always seems to be one or 2 extras that you weren't expecting, but are too stunning not to want to keep/breed....then all my plans go out the window...lol

    Now, I am just trying to concentrate on 3 solid colours and admire the pretty marbles from afar. Marbles lead my astray... *lol*


  2. I actually like the "like" button. I have used it and I am also posting. Personally, I will not let a button dictate whether or not I will post a comment. Sometimes I felt that I was posting to myself in my spawn logs and a few "likes" here and there would have let me know people were following my posts and just not commenting...


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  3. Everything 'Razzi has listed above are pretty much the benchmark of all betta/plant books. I am yet to find a betta book that goes into as much depth as some of the guppy books... For a good coffee table book, if you can find a copy, I'd recommend Amazing Thai Betta. It is a great photo book and good for a bit of inspiration when things go wrong in the fishroom ;)


  4. Good point 'Razzi :)

    As you need to be an IBC member to show in the open classes anyway, I recommend all IBC members take advantage of the resources available to us in the Better Bettas Yahoo group. You will find all show related info and more in the files section. From the points system, show standards right through to past issues of FLARE! (the May/June edition had some great articles on shows and showing your Bettas) and spawn log templates. Any questions, either post them on here, on one of the IBC related sites on facebook, contact one of your friendly local IBC affiliated clubs, or the IBC itself. Somebody out there will be more than willing to help.

    I realize that many people are new to showing and the IBC. This is a great time to do a little research while growing out your spring/summer spawns and waiting for the next announcement of an IBC show :D


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  5. With the Aussie IBC show scene well and truly up and running, you will start to see a rise in locally bred fish. For some, the announcements of the two shows this year was not enough time to breed and raise their own fish. As for next year, there is no excuse ;)

    With some great international AND locally bred Bettas up for auction at the VB show and for sale at the BA show, there was no excuse not to get some great quality breeding stock to breed a show winner or two next year.

    Shows are great opportunities to see the latest trends and colour/forms that are coming through and an excellent time to display your hard work and see what others are working on. Also, the auctions and sales are a good way to inject some new blood into your breeding lines and promote the hobby.

    As for the rest, meh. I'm here for the fish :D


  6. I won't presume to speak on behalf of any individual or group of people. I don't understand why others keep bringing issues of conflict to the fore. I'm over conflict, both imagined and real. I just want to breed and show my fish and share my hobby with others. I am not as vocal online anymore due to work and personal commitments. Nothing more, nothing less. I always take the time to help anyone who contacts me personally, as many people will attest.

    This thread originally came about because somebody bought up on a show thread (again, more than 12 months old) that they would not support a show that was not 100% locally Australian bred. Rather than hijack the thread with that subject, this one was created. I am still confused as to why this thread has been dug up and used this way. The Aussie show scene is alive and well and will only continue to grow.

    Let's just leave the second hand gossip at the door, don't drum up conflict where there is none and have fun.


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  7. First of all, I missed the news about WA becoming an IBC chapter! Great news! Well done Les and the gang.

    If I wasn't so busy preparing for a presentation in a couple of hours, I would want to discuss this further. Not quite sure what to think - perhaps I need time to sit back and re-read it a few times before I comment. Not sure I understand...

  8. Once again - going from the photo, it is hard to say. I wouldn't personally say marble or butterfly going from that photo. I had a few yellows in my HMPK spawn that had darker yellow in the base of the caudal getting lighter progressively through to what I called "yellow lace" - cello with a tinge of yellow to it. It is a trait common with yellows. Butterfly is more of a definite line between the colours, not a gradual fading to clear.


  9. Hey B - Sorry, I never saw your question about the size of my tank. It is a standard 4 ft tank. The main thing I found to reduce aggression is plenty of hiding spots and plants/objects to break line of sight... I do what Ash does when introducing new additions - All at once to start, then any newbies, feed the rabble up one end, then slip the new addition quietly in the other.

  10. Hi Brenton, I'll try to answer your questions in order -

    Clay Pot or Tea Cup - to be honest, it doesn't really matter, as long as the female has somewhere that she feels safe away from the male. I have no preference of one over the other, it is just whatever is at hand at the time. If your tank is planted heavily enough, you can do without. As I said at the start - this is what I find works for me. Plenty of people out there use a bare tank with nothing but IAL and one or two floating plants. There is no right or wrong.

    Holes Drilled in Tube - I have a tube with holes drilled in it and many more without. It is something I tried many years ago when I was looking for tips on having more successful pairings. There is a theory out there that the holes in the tube allows each fish to pick up on each others pheromones. Does it work? At the time I thought it did - but around the same time, I had also discovered the importance of conditioning. It wasn't until I attempted 2 spawns at the same time that I worked it out. My drill battery was dead, so just abandoned the drilling of the holes. Surprise, surprise, I had just as much success. I have had many many spawns since both with and without the tube that has the holes in it. There isn't one that I have more success with over the other.

    Since all my breeders are kept in a barracks system, I can only talk about my experiences with those setups. I usually have them setup side by side and remove the cards 2-3 times per day, 10 minutes at a time. I have never left them uncared for longer periods, as I figure they will see each other enough while in the spawn tank. I did read once that to avoid the male and female from getting too used to one another, only show them another Betta of the opposite sex that you do not plan to breed them with while being conditioned. That way, the female still swells with eggs and the male is excited to see another female once he hits the spawn tank. I did try this method a couple of times, but didn't find it any more/less successful.

    I have had males that lose interest after a couple of days, but usually find that short supervised visits and a quick chase reminds him what he is in there for. I have also had males refuse to build a nest until the female is released. I have found that most of the time i need to watch the body language cues rather than tick steps off on a checklist and abandon the spawn if the list has not been followed to the letter.

    Hope this helps.

  11. Show-Flyer-online-2013_zps7dabe26a.jpg

    Judges: Hermanus Haryanto (Head Judge), Todd Knight

    Stewards: someone Lea Matheson (Head Steward), Jarrod Nielsen, Peter Kann

    Show Chair: someone Lea Matheson

    Entry Fees

    Entry fees for the show will be $3 for Betta Australis club members $5 for non-members (Pairs count as one entry)

    Entry deadline

    All entries and accompanying show fees must be submitted by no later than Thursday October 10, 2013 contact enquiries@bettaaustralis.com with any questions.

    Australian Entries

    All Australian entries that cannot bench in their fish in person, may send their fish to the show via mail, courier or QANTAS freight. Entries must arrive between Thursday 17th October and Friday 18th October only. If shipping/dropping fish off, please ensure fish arrive on those days only. Must be before 1pm on the Friday. If you require your fish to be returned after the show, fill in the appropriate section on the entry form. If you wish to sell your entries after the show, fill in the appropriate section on the entry form. Please note there is a 20% commission on all fish sold. For further details, contact enquiries@bettaaustralis.com

    International Entries

    Arrangements can be made for International entries. Please contact the show chair for further details someone@gmail.com

    Please note – International entries cannot be returned, but can be sold. There is a 20% commission on all fish sold.


    You must be a member of the IBC (International Betta Congress) to show in Group A: Regular Classes (with the exception of Divisions “F” and “G”) Non IBC members may show in Division F: Wild Type Pairs, Division G: Arts and Crafts (Optional) and Group B: New Breeder Classes.


    Prizes for the show will be -

    GROUP A: Regular Classes

    Division A: Halfmoon Singletail

    A1. Dark Solid Colour STM

    A2. Iridescent Dark Solid Colour STM

    A3. Light Solid Colour STM

    A4. Bicolour and Patterned STM

    A5. Metallic Solid Colour STM (dark and light)

    A6. Solid Colour STF

    A7. Bicolour and Patterned STF

    Division B: Halfmoon Doubletail

    B1. Solid Colour DTM

    B2. Bicolour and Patterned DTM

    B3. Doubletail Female (all colours/patterns)

    Division C: Crowntail

    C1. Solid Colour CTM

    C2. Bicolour and Patterned CTM

    C3. Crowntail Female (all colours/patterns)

    Division D: Shortfin

    D1. Dark Solid Colour Show Plakat STM

    D2. Iridescent Dark Solid Colour Show Plakat STM

    D3. Light Solid Colour Show Plakat STM

    D4. Bicolour and Patterned Show Plakat STM

    D5. Metallic Solid Show Plakat STM

    D6. Giant Show Plakat STM (TRIAL CLASS)

    D7. Solid Colour Show Plakat STF

    D8. Bicolour and Patterned Show Plakat STF

    D9. Giant Show Plakat STF (TRIAL CLASS)

    Division Awards: Best of Variety Male – Trophy & Certificate + Sponsor gift

    Best of Variety Female – Trophy & Certificate + Sponsor gift

    Class Awards : First – Certificate

    Second – Certificate

    Third – Certificate

    Division A-D Winners compete for BOS & RBOS

    BOS Male - $100 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    RBOS Male - $50 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    BOS Female - $100 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    RBOS Male - $50 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    Division E: Breeders Division

    E1. Colour and Form Variations

    E2. Form and Finnage

    E3. Pairs

    Division F: Wild Type Betta Pairs

    F1. Bubblenesters – small

    F2. Bubblenesters – medium/large

    F3. Mouthbrooders – small

    F4. Mouthbrooders – medium/large

    Division G: Arts and Crafts (Optional)

    G1. Photography

    G2. Illustration

    G3. Crafts

    Division H: Temporary Classes

    H1. Traditional Plakat Male

    H2. Halfmoon Shortfin Male

    H3. Doubletail Plakat Male

    H4. Female (H1-H3)

    Division Awards: Winners from Division E & H compete against Division A – D (according to tail type) for Best of Variety Male and Best of Variety Female

    Best of Division (Divisions F & G only) – Trophy & Certificate + Sponsor Gift (Division F & G do not accrue IBC show points)

    Class Awards : First – Certificate

    Second – Certificate

    Third – Certificate

    Divisions “F” and “G” are not eligible to compete for BOV, BOS or RBOS

    GROUP B: New Breeder Classes

    NB1. Singletail Male

    NB2. Doubletail Male

    NB3. Crowntail Male

    NB4. Shortfin Male

    NB5. Singletail Female

    NB6. Doubletail Female

    Class Awards : First – Certificate

    Second – Certificate

    Third – Certificate

    Group B Winners compete for Group B: New Breeder Classes BOS & RBOS

    BOS Male - $50 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    BOS Female - $50 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    RBOS Male - $25 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    RBOS Female - $25 Prizemoney, Trophy (Platter), Certificate

    Not eligible to compete for BOS and RBOS (Group A)


    Schedule (Times may vary closer to show date, go to www.bettaaustralis.com for up to date details)

    Friday 18th October (times to be confirmed) – Benching in

    Saturday 19th October (Morning - times to be confirmed) – Benching in

    Saturday 19th October (Late morning – afternoon – times to be confirmed) – Judging

    Saturday 19th October (5pm approx.) – Trophy Presentation

    Saturday 19th October (6pm approx) – Club BBQ

    Saturday 19th October (7pm approx) – Hermanus Haryanto talk: Wild Bettas

    Sunday 20th October (6am – 12pm) – Betta Show “Public Day” & Caboolture Markets

    Sunday 20th October (12pm – 4pm approx) – Bench out

    Sales (Details may vary closer to show date. Go to www.bettaaustralis.com for up to date details)

    For this show, the IBC has granted Betta Australis permission to sell fish that entrants nominate for sale, rather than the usual end of show auction. During the show, stewards will have a book available to record expressions of interest for fish available for sale. Please note, there will be a 20% commission on all fish sold.

    Sale times

    After 12pm Sunday 20th October. Pickups between 12 – 2pm Sunday 20th October, or by arrangement.

    **The Betta Australis Livebearer Interest Group will be holding a Fancy Guppy show alongside the IBC International Betta Show. Judge and prizes to be announced**

    More details as they come to hand.

    Hope to see you at the Show!!

    Jarrod Nielsen

    Secretary, Betta Australis

  12. B - the tank was very low maintenence and once the algae issue sorted itself out it required very little maintenance. The main reason the plants died was because the timers that my lights were on stopped working. Every day I promised myself that I'd find the time to sort it out - see what was going on and either fix or replace the timers. At the time I was running back and forth to the hospital to visit my Dad in my free time. Between that, his eventual passing and a few further weeks of disinterest, by the time I remembered to do anything about the tank, it was too late. All the lush growth was dead apart from some val, which I moved to another tank (and was promptly eaten by my empire gudgeons...) Once I have completed my fishroom makeover, get some work done on the car and a couple of other pressing matters, I will re-do my tank. It was amazing to watch the female bettas interact and explore. Better than TV most nights.

    The only thing I would do differently would be:

    Use standard Blood and Bone (not Blood and Bone Plus)

    Not have as much substrate at the front glass (over time went green and was a little unattractive.)

    Forget the hairgrass and so straight to dwarf chain sword!

    Looks like you are doing everything right! Good luck and I can't wait to see what happens.

    Matt doesn't really post on here anymore, he got out of fish and into creepy crawlies...lol (Spiders and Scorpions) If you have any questions, I can put you in touch with him - he is on facebook...

  13. I just jumped on to update the spawn log for these guys and suddenly realised I had never done a spawn log for this spawn.

    They will be 3 months old on Sunday and will be jarred up in the next day or so...

    The parents were a Male Orange Dragon HMPK and a Female Orange HMPK (mother of my past 2 Orange HMPK spawns)

    I am getting some nice yellows out of the mix. In fact, the yellow seems to be more vivid than the yellows that were produced with the females sibling brother. Most are showing the start of dragon scaling. I'm not expecting full coverage as they are only half dragons. I have one male red HMPK in the spawn - he is showing the start of blue irids (the only one showing blue at this stage.)This spawn were neglected in the early weeks and therefore some are missing ventrals. As none of this spawn will be for sale, I am OK with this - it is not genetic and the main point of the spawn was to produce breeding stock to play with. I have achieved that goal.

  14. Let me know and I'll pick you up mate. From what I had heard you were supposed to be in there much longer. Glad you are making good progress.

    As for the fishroom, been too busy to progress any further since the last photos. Perhaps next week...

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