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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/09/2013 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    finally found a picture of the dad courtesy the Victoria Betta FB page!
  2. 3 points
    Please excuse the changing font size - the paste function from Word isn't exactly uniform in its approach it seems... Sibling cross from http://www.ausaqua.net/index.php/topic/15521-black-orchid-ct-x-black-marble-hm/ Sire Dame Goals Reduced webbing True CTPK Would be nice if I could get improved pattern coverage as well... Sunday 1st June - they were not able to see each other or any other Betta. I began feeding them frozen blood worm - three times a day. Normally they only get a few pellets of an evening. Monday 2nd - he went into the spawn tank, and I turned the heater up to 27.5. Feeds of blood worms 3xday continued. Still isolated. Tuesday 3rd morning - 20 minute session for him with a mirror to protect his territory. Tuesday evening - first uncarding with her in a beanie box next to his tank. Blood worms 3x day continued. Male began nest building - female striped up nicely - but not fat with eggs (gravid). Wednesday 4th - uncarded for 10 minutes in the morning, and for 30 minutes in the evening. Female fattened up nicely. Placed female inside tube, inside spawn tank - both fed blood worm - once meal finished, female released. Chasing and biting ensued...queue the Benny Hill music Placed female back in tube over night - she had a piece of anal fin missing. Thursday 5th - Gave both a feed of blood worm in the morning. Once meal finished, released female and went to work. Came home at 5:30 to find female missing more of her anal and a bit of her caudal...and wrapping with the male - went out shopping, came home around 7:30 and removed the female who was now hiding from the male... Male tending nest well, but not overly quick in picking up falling eggs. Friday 6th – Male has all the eggs under the cup, but has allowed nest to deteriorate all together. Eggs now free floating. Saturday 7th – tails! Dad once more attentive to those hanging from cup but not so much those who had fallen to the tank floor. Saturday night – VE added to the tank Sunday 8th – Free Swimmers: First evidence of free swimmers noted so Dad was removed. Lots of evidence of unattended fry left on tank floor under cup. All still had egg sack attached but were ignored by dad. Once all fry are free swimming I’ll do a careful clean of floor and remove the dead. And just to finish on a better note - here's a pic of one only a few hours old who just happened to be in the right place for me to get a decent shot of him
  3. 3 points
    As people are probably aware of by now, if it's not simple, I don't do it - in regards to my fish keeping I'm happy enough to put in an effort to begin with to make things easy later on - big believer in doing things right the first time. So, I'm not particularly keen on keeping jarred out individuals in separate beanie boxes or take-away containers etc. I went out and got one of those little three bay things that has no sump or anything, and doesn't share water (holds a touch over 2L in each compartment) and heated it from underneath with a reptile heating cord. But I'm over having to do the water changes and cleaning every day (and I'm not impressed with the temp fluctuations with the cord) - bottom line - I wanted something bigger, something kept at an even temp, and something easier to clean and do water changes on, and for said water changes to be less often. So, I'm going to build a holding system. This will be self contained in a single 2 and a half foot tank. It must be able to hold around 18 individuals in their own container, while carding them from others, and be able to share water so I only have to have one filter and one heater. And I started this thread to give me impetuous to actually get it finished in a reasonable time (cant hide when everyone knows (oh, how's your fish room coming Razzi? ) This is what I started with: 1 x 2'6" tank 1 x sheet of black corflute 18 x 1.25L soda bottles 1 x sponge filter 1 x heater This stuff was gathered over the last year and was currently sitting around doing nothing - so cost has been negligible. I'm losing out on the $1.80 I could get from returning the bottles...but I think I can live with that. Tools: 1 x scissors 1 x knife 1 x ruler I began by cutting the corflute to size so it fit down the length of the tank and the cross pieces to fit snuggly across the tank. The idea here is to have each bottle sit in its own little compartment. I've still got three bottles to put into the above shown configuration. I can fit more than 18 bottles into the tank, but wanted to leave room for the filter and heater. I'm still toying with the creation of the bottles/containers. Those above have been cut a little below the level of the surrounding corflute, and have holes in the bottom to allow water transfer, but I'm thinking I may change this to bottles with only holes in the sides. It will mean I need to siphon out the crap a little more often, but transferring the fish in and out would be easier (and I'm all about things being easier). Remember, this is a temporary holding tank only for the fish I'm moving on to new owners. My breeding stock is held in different barrack systems. Now my offsider didn't have much input into the design, or the actual putting together of the thing, but his presence was still appreciated... Once I've decided on the bottles configuration, I'll move on....stay tuned
  4. 3 points
    Congratulations you have skipped directly to fishkeeping level 5 which was to conscript your spouse to your hobby. You now have 67 levels opened up for you. Good job!
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    finally found a picture of the mum too! except this is her in the spawn tank so she was looking very ratty haha in other news, one of my kids won a ribbon in the May IBC vicbetta show!!!
  7. 2 points
    7 weeks old Still eating grated frozen BW & small pellets 3 x a day. All growing well. Roughly 85 fry. Syphon & wipe the tank every second day & water changes still 50%. Length Big - 2.5cm Small - 0.8cm Avg - 1.6cm This is the biggest Average size fry
  8. 2 points
    I handle betta to move them from tank to tank - fish wrangling Thai style But you want to make sure you don't have lotions or soaps or anything on your hands to irritate the fish, and keeping them out for too long, and flipping them about would cause stress - and remember these guys jump, so if you were to keep your hand open, be prepared to practise your slips catching I don't do it to examine my fish, so my hand is always curled into a light fist around the fish - but I've seen plenty of photos of Betta on palms
  9. 2 points
    Fry are 33 days old. Some smaller fry with a normal sized fry
  10. 2 points
    This is not my idea, originally, but one I've altered from other posts I've seen here and elsewhere (cant actually remember the thread I saw it on here - sorry, memory like a sieve). The one's I've seen before allowed for the fish to see each other, I wanted them isolated, but still able to share water, and take advantage of the bigger volume of water to help keep parameters stable. I've come to the conclusion that cutting the bottles a little bigger, (so they hold a litre if free standing - around 18cm on a 1.5L bottle), and then drill a ring of holes around the bottle 8cm up from the base, and then another ring of holes a bit further up, but below the water line, allows the transference of water in and out, but when I want to lift the bottle/container out (for sending fish or photographs), I can slowly lift the bottle up and allow the water to drain out of the holes, leaving the fish, and 500ml of water remaining in the bottle (no nets required). It means I'll have to siphon out each bottle, but that's a small effort compared to trying to get the fish out of the containers with a net or by hand (not that my hand fits all that well inside a 1.5L bottle anyway). So, now I have to come up with another 15 bottles to configure in my newly decided upon way - more creaming soda for me. At 18cm, I fill the whole tank to within 2-3cm of the cut bottle tops - this comes to 30L as an overall volume of the tank to hold 18 fish. A closer look at my guinea pig...a young expendable (cull candidate) F1 Black Orchid CTPK (she was separated early due to fin melt but she's recovered quite well - just cant put her back with her siblings now or chaos would ensue...)
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    So I didn't too bad for not having the standards in front of me
  13. 2 points
    First F1 pairings have been spawned - links in my signature
  14. 2 points
    Thanks for the info. Obviously I am still finding my feet. Thanks for that. This is several days later. About 18 fry visible.Mainly on the l/h side
  15. 2 points
    Yeah I think he looks fine! Sounds and looks like he just had too much to eat I wouldn't be too worried, you're doing the right things. His fin will heal too. Not too bad a problem, the water changes and salt will be helping him heal properly. The new growth between the two parts of the fin may start clear but will get colour overtime and soon you won't be able to tell it was ever torn! He's a lucky fish, being treated like royalty keep up the good work. We're always happy to help whenever you encounter a new problem!
  16. 2 points
    No.. Four weeks ago haha. Still really early I'm thinking I might take some photos today for you all to see!
  17. 2 points
    We have lights and just a few darks (about a third)
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Treating wild bettas like fancy bettas? Blasphemy!!
  20. 2 points
    This pair got introduced in another thread of mine when I went on a fish rant --> http://www.ausaqua.net/index.php/topic/15568-worst-fathers-of-the-year-and-artifical-egg-hatching/#entry174381 THE SIRE no good photo oh well Copper Halfmoon Male definate rosetail obvious especially in caudal. solid colour some red wash through ventrals and anal especially. other than that nice balance overall no mask THE DAME is a red copper butterfly very nice balance and fin shape shes lovely bands are almost perfect with no bleeding very sharp distinct edges AIMS? EXPECTATIONS? coppers... Lots of them no to slight masking in fry. red wash/present variagated fin/butterfly is dominant that being said it can be cray cray so i can expect solids, varying quality of butterfly and possible marble depending on extended lineage. reduced overbranching from father (balanced by lady) standard halfmoon inheritence, some SD or OHM possible. THE COURTSHIP long story short male bit female, spawning went relatively well (lots of wraps, lots of eggs, not much aggression), males an egg eater and he doesnt even put eggs in the nest before he starts snacking -.- I artificially hatched some of the eggs(method below) i have 12 tails as of tonight and a few possibly fertile to hatch eggs they're at that stage when they are tails just hanging from the nest a few move lazily around but most are fairly stationary. but not white! so alive still and eating egg sacks still they are acclimatising i will start feeding and adding water slowly as currently they are only in about 100 ml ARTIFICIAL HATCHING MADE EASY BY : DOWNSOUTHBETTAS AKA ERMA SHIRLEY I have decided to make this helpful guide for the breeder or novice whose fish just can’t seem to keep a spawn. It will help reduce a lot of the frustration we feel when we lose a whole spawn to a munching male. Even with the best conditioning some males will still eat the eggs or fry. This information is meant to help you learn how to artificially hatch fry and to better your understanding of the process. Let me start by saying that artificial hatching is not easy. It takes time and effort from the breeder to hatch and raise betta fry. To get started you will need: 1. a shallow plastic container (gladware, Tupperware) 2. small eye dropper 3. aquarium salt 4. Fungus guard ( liquid or crystals ) After the male and female are done spawning check the nest for eggs. Remove the female and medicate as normal. Next, you will have to lure the male away from the nest and remove him. Take the container (make sure it’s clean) and slowly move the whole bubble nest into the container. If a couple of eggs scatter use the eye dropper to put them into the container. If the nest is under half of a Styrofoam cup, then take your finger and wipe the bubble nest off onto your finger and dip it into the container of water. Make sure that there is enough water so that the container will float in the aquarium and not so much water that it sinks. The bubbles will start to dissipate in a couple of hours. After you have the container floating and the scattered eggs picked up you will need to add the aquarium salt (just a pinch) and the Fungus guard (1-2 drops or a pinch of crystals). The salt will help with hatching and the fungus guard will protect the eggs and fry from harmful bacteria. This is the critical step, the eggs will need to be swished around the container as much as possible. I recommend every 3-5 hours. Take the eye dropper and remove fungused eggs and dead fry, both appear white. Your fry should hatch within 24-48 hours. Leave the fry in the container another 2 days after they become free swimming. Once the yolks sacs have been absorbed feed the fry as normal, microworms or baby brine shrimp. Feed very small amounts so the container doesn’t become polluted. Three to five (3-5) days later, the fry will be ready to move into the aquarium. The eye dropper can be used to move small amounts of aquarium water into the container. Slowly allow the fry to adjust to the aquarium water. After acclimating the fry over a 5-8 hour period. they should be ready to transfer. Slowly take the container out of the water, allowing the fry to swim into the aquarium. Check for any fry stuck to the container or eggs. Continue feeding small amounts. Just a couple of side notes. This method will produce smaller spawns. I have noticed artificially hatched fry are smaller. They will not be “stunted”. They will grow normally with a proper diet and clean water. I hope this information will help you raise more spawns. As with anything no method is 100% successful. This methods works for me, I hope it works for you. Things I learnt from my first hatching experience. MEASURE the amount of water, salt and fungicide in each container of eggs use tubs (i did know this but due to my bainmarie-ing needs i couldnt do it) use an eye dropper to remove fungused and dead fry/eggs (had a few eggs with tails which will never become more as they were covered in fungus ) be gentle with bags and consistantly move the water around in them use a torch and check veryyyyyy carefully when looking for fry (i hold the torch on the bottom of a takeaway container and look for silhouettes, movement, eyes and a yellow belly
  21. 2 points
    i've added annoying captions AND music. enjoy watching my video suckers and yes they bow huge bubblenests already. they cover that water surface no problem....
  22. 2 points
    See - reading log...commenting on log...you are not alone
  23. 2 points
    are dating. Decided on them for the 1st spawn of the year. Fingers xed. PRINCESS SHELDON
  24. 2 points
    New male spawned with her today. Will post spawnlog once hatched.
  25. 2 points
    I might be able to get the techies to do it for me. Although I do have access to the database files I have no idea how to do anything with it.