I usually don't comment on some of the odd things/lies/slander/fabrications etc I see written about me, but this is so bizarre I have to say something.
Personally, I very much doubt the bettas have been imported from Germany. It seems an odd thing to do when the world's biggest producer of bettas (Thailand) is a lot closer, and a lot cheaper.
However, it may be that the importer in question gets some of the HM stock from the German supplier when they order in other fish. The German supplier brings in the Bettas from Thailand, so your boys have racked up more frequent flier miles than most people!
We don't buy bettas from Germany. We purchase directly from the breeders in Thailand. Much bigger range, much better quality stock. And, we know the genetics.
On very rare occasions we will try bettas from wholesalers. Usually we sell the HM males are Superdeltas, as they are not of the standard of the HM we bring in from Thailand. Some do make HM and are labelled as such.
It would be interesting to see your males in full flare.
I cannot work out why your LFS would spin you such a story.
We bring in 99% of our own betta stock. Not sure how your LFS could get "first dibs" when we don't buy bettas from Germany.
I think they are just talking themselves up by dropping our name!!
Good luck with your boys, I'm sure they will have a happy home.
Phillip Shaddock (world leader in guppy genetics) has just published a new book "Guppy Colour Manual"
We have a couple of copies on the way.
Unfortunately there was a slight mix-up with the printing.
There are a couple of copies left, being offered at a discount.
You can read about it and order a copy of the manual here:
If you are keen on breeding guppies, showing, understanding colour combinations etc this is a must have.
The humble guppy is far more than meets the eye!
Best regards, someone
It is pleasing to see the fish looking so nice Ken. You are doing a good job.
The Mustard gas and Mustard dragon at the top are from the breeder Thitipong (Patsayawan) in Thailand. Nice guy and his fish are strong on form.
You need small, young females to help with ease of spawning. We always ask for sibling females if they are available. At the very least they will be from the same strain (brother spawns etc)
The bottom 2 pics are fish from Pichet (Interfish) The last fish was not sold as a Dumbo. However, Pichet produces many Dumbo colour strains (HMPK and HM) (and is our main supplier of Dumbo stock) so it is likely this male has some Dumbo blood in him.
This is a full dumbo HM pair
If you are interested in fish like this get in touch with Adrian or myself ASAP as we are about to finalise the next Thai order.
While we do have account with AI, we prefer to import our own fancy bettas from quality Thai breeders.
I only skimmed through this thread, so apologies if I am repeating what has already been said.
From my experience, and discussions with breeders and keepers, the ONLY bettas you can safely keep in a recirculating or shared system are those you breed and raise yourself.
Consider ALL store bought/imported stock to be a pathogen's playground.
After the fish are first jarred, they have no contact with any other stock. The immune memory for fish is about 2 weeks.
If you stress fish, just like people, the immune system becomes depressed. The magnitude of the stress will affect the severity of the immune system compromise.
What stresses fish?
Changes in temp - especially cold (for tropical fish) and rapid fluctuations (like we have at the moment - 15oC overnight 30oC during the day)
Changes in water chemistry and parameters. (water-changing without testing the water parameters and adjusting to what the fish is already in)
Shipping (BIG one) - this includes taking a fish from the store to your house.
Being left uncarded. That is, sat beside another Betta day and night. (for the splendens complex)
Changes in diet.
Being dropped, netted, caught. Removing a fish from water is one of the MOST stressful things for a fish. (think about this next time you go fishing and drag a catch onto the boat for photos) I imagine the human equivalent would be to suddenly have someone grab you and hold you under water for 5 mins while you thrash about and try not to drown.
Predators (pay attention to what sort of tank mates you choose in a community)
A stressed fish allows pathogens to proliferate. Whereas numbers would be held in check by a healthy fish, a stressed one will soon be overwhelmed. The pathogens are now in sufficient numbers to overwhelm even a healthy fish, so others in the same water will also succumb.
The solution is to quarantine all new fish. Keep newcomers in isolation for a minimum of 2 weeks. After this, start doing water changes on the new fish with water from the tank it is to go into. Your "clean" fish may in fact be carrying pathogens that the new fish has no immunity to. It goes both ways.
When introducing fish for breeding - know your source. If you obtained stock from another breeder, you may be willing to take the risk and put them together ASAP. If the stock are from your LPS - rethink your strategy.
Sorority tanks for females are a good idea, but I personally do not recommend them. (unless of course they are your own bred fish)
"Pecking order" creates a lot of stress and usually damage. Sure way to get sick fish.
I think this is a midnight blue, or metallic blue.
You can make "fancy" guppies from any LFS stock. It comes down to having a goal in mind when breeding, and being prepared to cull heavily (even if this means just giving your non-keep stock to a store.) It will take several generations. Plenty of time to research guppy genetics!
Work out what you want to produce. Select for the traits you like. For example: If you want to produce a guppy with a black body and red tail, look for fish showing this trait, with nice, clean demarkation between the black and red, and as vibrant colours as possible.
Have a look at some of the show standards so you know what shape to aim for.
In general, select for strong bodied fish with broad caudal and full tails. Look for even fins and even colour. Go for strong, healthy, active fish swimming and courting vigorously.
most important - go back to using dechlorinated tap water.
Rain water is too soft and acidic for guppies. They require hard, alkaline water.
If your tap water is not pH 7 or greater use buffers and/or livebearer salts.
I am assuming this was one I sent to you.
She was in blue water because I send all bettas in bag buddies, which has a blue colour.
This female was eating dry food no problems before being shipped.
Please remember that shipping fish IS STRESSFUL for them. As you have had her for over a week and she is only now developing fungus I would look at the conditions you are keeping her in. Did you put her into soft, slight acidic water with melafix/ketapang on arrival? Have you treated the fungus?
It is really difficult to get wild caught Betta smaragdina, especially the females - I have asked for 12 so far, and all bar one (sent to you) turned out to be males. These are all still healthy and sitting in their tanks waiting for the ever elusive female partner.
If you can, treat her with an antibiotic.
Hi Dazer, where are you located?
Macs are super sensitive - they are NOT a beginner fish. Every time you water change, move, change the temp, water comp, pH etc they will get velvet.
Here they are housed in almost pure rain water with enough ketapang extract to make the water a strong tea colour. Any sign of velvet treat with white spot cure immediately. It will clear in a matter of days.
We feed live black worms and live mossie larvae. They were eating pellets at the breeders place, so you should be able to get them back onto that once they settle in.
They spawned in the tanks here while waiting to be shipped.
Best regards, someone
try mossie larvae.
I try to set up buckets of these for harvest when I have wild bettas in stock. It is important to harvest the larvae before they pupate as they are quick to turn into adult mossies soon after!
It is the most natural food for bettas.