Nice looking tank - Here's a few ideas:
If you like corys a trio or 4sum of C.Aeneas ( bronze/albino/) or peppers/panda/juli cory or 4-6 C.Pygmaeus (dwarf)would be good - you could possibly fit a few more pygmaeus in than 6 and they are just like full size corys and spawn fairly easily in the corrrect conditions.
You could also try Otocinclus catfish, they are nocturnal feeders and prefer to be in schools of 4-6 average out at about 5cm fully grown and they like algae
I don't know about killi needs/habbits, but another possibility is shrimp - and they are pretty active little souls
If you are going to do the fatherless hatch drop the water before the fry emerge then you won't suck any up, the closer to the surface they are without expending all their energy the easier it will be for them and it'll increase the survival potential. Also be on the look out for fungused eggs a pair of tweezers comes in handy for getting them out of the tank asap before the fungus spreads.
Yep! one with lots & lots & lots of tail.......he had recurring fin rot and died from it .
I found him happiest when he was in a barrack ( 15x30x18cm) with Java Moss, val for him to sit on and a peep hole to eyeball his neighbour. Vitamins also helped.
Loaches on line is a great resource
I wouldn't put clownies in with very small fry as they're omniverous so anything small enough to fit in their mouth is fair game and favoured foods are snails, blackworm, bloodworms, small bits of prawns for the larger fish, so tiny fry could become a tasty snack and clownies have large appetites.
They should be fine with larger fry. On their own they can get very stressed and succumb to Ick which can kill them pretty quick. They're scaleless so meds must be diluted and they don't tolerate high salt concentrations. Actually they're very similar to cory's in needs, care and habitat.
Take care when you try to catch them they are lightening fast and slippery as eels and they panic! And they have 2 thick barbs located under their eyes which they will extend when frightened, which will often get caught in the mesh fish nets, and these bloody hurt if they stick into you. Catching them is very stressful to them I had 2 larger ones keel over and die after being caught.........they weren't injured just over stressed.
Something else to think about they can live a long time and can get very very large and bulky, Like your Logan. something else they like "flow" in their water unlike fighters.
Just some thoughts,
for info on corydoras.
If you treat as any other tropical and not a scavenger you'll find they do very well and their antics quirky, funny and very rewarding. They are absolutely non-aggressive and very peaceful so in a community situation make sure they've plenty of places to hide. They prefer softly lit conditions or "shady" areas to escape and will hide if they feel threatened. They prefer a min group of 3 but will schoal in larger groups and at times behave a bit like sheep - if 1 does they all do
Cory's are omniverous oppertunistic feeders, so they will munch on any carcase. Mine get mixed foods, bloodowrms, dried blackworm or live as a treat, NLS-Grow, normal algae/spiralina chips and Sera Catfish Chips, Vipachips,Viformo tabs and the occasional bit of zucchini - like any fish a varied mixed diet is best. Mine reward me every 3-4 weeks after a big water change with a mating display and 200-300 eggs.
Oh and don't forget they're like scaleless fish they don't tolerate high salt concentrations or most meds. Wth the exception of the Waterlife products, everything needs to be diluted down 60:40. They are also susceptible to whitespot/velvet under the same stimulant conditions that fighters get it and it can be a real bugger to spot especially if they're the "albino" variety.
hope this helps.
Maybe he was trying to love you , and he just got carried away
A hug could be a bit difficult, given your size -you just wouldn't fit in the tank
either that or he needs a bone of his own to chew on :lol:
It seems the first batch of eggs ( laid 15/7/08) belong solely to the "bronze" trio and the albino female & her Bronze males mated yesterday(16/07/08) and dropped me another bundle. So I decided to remove some eggs from the 2nd spawning and dump them into the same hatching tank as the first, - Well if they were going to be so accomodating I may as well take advantage of it, mighten I 24hrs between siblings no biggie.
You can probably imagine the look on my face when upon opening the "cory incubation ward" I find the first lot of eggs fungused someone didn't remove all the unfertilised eggs *dumb, dumb, dumb* So I decided that I'd best get to and see if I could save any from the fist batch.. Of course after putting the 2nd batch into the water......... here I am separating fungus from little hard but fragile & easily squished pin sized eggs *it's now 11:15pm and it's been a looong day* and I'm playing with fungus balls , mmmmm yummy??
..........but wait there's more..........
What the hell is that??? Oh great , more contamination in the tank these wiggly "mozzie larvae thingies" Bugger!!! I hope these eggies can hang on till tomorrow I really am not up for a tank clean & water change at 11:30pm!! As you can probabley visualize I pretty bleary eyed by now and damn me theres more of these wiggly things wizzing around the tank - my thoughts *Great, just great playing in fungus and bugs at some unholy hour of hte night! Just to add to the picture I'm separating the fungus from the eggs with my fingernails - Yes I know it's gross but they're the only manipulable sharp thing I trust myself with at this hour. Damn me I wish these eggs would stop wiggling whilst I'm trying to peel them free.....Arrgh it's hatching on my finger........**Oh stuff a duck they're hatchlings. Yep cory hatchlings** -
Well 5 days to hatch??? somebody shoulda told these little "wigglers" !!!
As of this morning all the recovered, fungus removed eggs have hatched
Just a couple of baby photos ( if they'll load )
B'razzi, have you ever tried to catch these buggers?
They're like greased lightening and especially living in a jungle tank........The 6 adults share their 60x30x30 with 3 khuli's, a hillstream loach and about 20million snails which just won't die and a jungle weed that fills half the tank!!
I'll try to post a photo.
* Catfish enthusiast's advice..... move the eggs it's apiece of cake*
Move the eggs - piece of cake, I can do that
Moving the eggs was not an easier proposition - the little bugers had them everywhere..........on or under almost every surface........what a pain they're so sticky at one point I looked like I had lots of little warts all over my fingers. Eventually got about 85% into the fish net and have set up a bare bottomed hatching tank with 50%. new water and 50% from the tank........which meant another fresh water addition to the main tank and now the other female has gone all broody. 5-7 days before hatching..........now I wait......
Thanks everyone for all your suggestions & help.
I haven't reviewed on this forum before and was a little concerned about being too critical and upsetting people - but this is the sort of assessment that I give my fish either those that I buy or those that I keep as potential breeder stock and some people don't really take kindly to this sort of assessment.....ie "you're picking my betta to pieces" and get cross or hurt. I guess I just didn't want to tread on toes.
Your right B'razzi he does look a bit light-on but I kinda put that down to the photo and sort of ignored that I think I need a bit more work as a judge
Sometimes thinning rays are a result of calcium and mineral defficiency.I've noticed that some of my imports, seem to suffer from thinning rays - it may have to do with the water GH or quality that they were grown in, which like ours is not "pure perfect water".Recently I've started using "Seachem Fresh Trace" which is a mineral additive in my water, it would seem to be somewhat like "Geo-Liquid" which at the time I started looking was a bit hard to obtain. I've found that it really helps with the thinning rays - it's not immediate but the rays show a thickening over time..............maybe I'm just seeing what I want to see Anyway it could be worth a try.
I'll have a go at reviewing this handsom fish based on IBC requirements - so here goes
In a show I think he'd be in J2- Fringed Finned AOC ST Male class
- General impression: A healthy looking fish with a full strong body and no curled rays. Topline nose to dorsal could be smoother and the rays could be thicker ( check out the Turquioise Bettarazzi has for sale - thick strong rays are a bonus for holding the finnage upright longer over thier lifetimes)
- Caudal:: Ideally the caudal should have a 180 degree spread, although most CT's don't make this. Outer rays on the caudal top edge could be longer. Webbing reduction between the rays is neat and even but ideally should be 33% . Webbing between the reverse cross rays is even. Some of the rays are uneven in length and in the cross ray characteristic is not visible on all rays.
- Dorsal:: nice dorsal. Good width and well carried with even webbing reduction - the first rays could be a bit longer
- Anal:: webbing reduction and ray distribution is uneven
- Ventrals:: Bit hard to tell from the picture but look to be the right fullness and length
- Color: A vibrantly coloured black lace with good colour distribution on the body, dorsal and caudal. In the photo ther seem to be a couple of spots that are not as well marked on the anal
Overall a very nice fish with good breeding potential.
If you're going to breed him 2 things I'd look out for: - the cross ray trait doesn't breed true so don't count on getting baby cross rays at least in F1. It's unlikely but maybe some in F2 if the female also carries the gene; And choose a strong straight rayed female with good even webbing reduction particularly in the anal and a smooth top line to counterbalance his not so good points.
PS: I hope you don't htink I've been too harsh - I wasn't trying to find things to criticise
Brett is right sometimes they don't build anything until desperation stations Put the cup in and see what he does - he may not be happy with your choice of leaf.....The other thing you can try is letting some of the water from the females holding tank ( assuming that her water is separate) into thetank with him, a good dose of hormones may help him lift his game.
Like Sara I would classify him as a Trad PK; not only for the caudal which lacks the defined "D" sharpness of the HM shape, but also the teardrop dorsal and the long pointy anal. His body shape is also more trad Pk in that it is more slender and torpedo like, allowing for him being a young fish, than the broader bodies of the show HMPK.
Being petstore VT you're right they are the classic Heinz 57 variety mut, so genetically they potentially could carry anything, however to spawn anything other than a VT from a VT xVT spawn would mean that both would have to carry "the same other gene" and whilst this is not impossible the odds are not good.
VT is genteically a dominant tail type. That is it's dominant over PK,HM and I think co-dominant with CT
If mum & dad were VT then VT tails are what you have....... there can be some variation in form ie the degree of spread at the caudal penducle, the shape of the "veil" and the actual tail length. The variation you are seeing may just fall into the "just at different stages of developement" category.
Ok this is the third time my adult cory double trio have spawned/ are spawning.........Yes, both sets at the same time<_<
Trust me to do a big water change .........
My problem is this - the last twice they've spawned I haven't removed either the parents or the eggs and hence only 1 survivor from each batch, I'd like a few survivors from this opportunity
I can't find "The Spawning Cory's for Dummies" manual anywhere online.
Does anyone have any instructions ??? what do I need to do??